The Return of Knickers?

Ralph_Earl_-_Elijah_Boardman_-_WGA7452
At the risk of alarming Kelly, who threatened to divorce me over my attempt to “thoughtfluence” the monocle back into common use, I think it’s time to bring back knickers. But first let me clear up some linguistic confusion: some of our English speaking readers will know this garment as knickerbockers (knickers are women’s underwear in Britain). I’m talking about pants that stop around the knee and that are worn by both men and women.

Before my annoying plantar fasciitis injury, I used to don knickers twice a week to go fencing. They are comfortable, allowing for easy movement, and more dignified and modest than shorts.

jp804
Modern fencing knickers are white. The Victorian, black version of the fencing uniform was more stylish:

tumblr_mtsskdB9NR1rnk53yo1_500
A tangent here: please, dear fencing officials, do not attempt to “modernize” the uniform:

cKQWt61qMZ3hXMc3ozN05Tl72eJkfbmt4t8yenImKBVvK0kTmF0xjctABnaLJIm9
Remember, the classic uniform is still sexy. Note slightly NSFW examples: 1 and 2.

Baseball, football and golf all adopted knickers for the same reasons they work in fencing: comfort, warmth, lower leg flexibility and dignity.

baseball
Alice_Manfield_-_Guide_Alice,_Mt_Buffalo,_c1900-30,_SLV
The garment also played an important roll in liberating women from burdensome hoop skirts and corsets. Above is mountain guide Alice Manfield. And, of course, we can’t forget, late 19th/early 20th century women’s cycling apparel:

wheelsofchange1
These days, outside of the fencing strip, the only place you’ll see knickers in an un-ironic context is when you find yourself hunting shooting in Britain:

tumblr_mstdoqyq6y1qhyo6ho1_500

UPDATE: Alas, Root Simple reader Peter informs me that this picture is fiction. Current shooting attire, Peter informs me, is “rubber boots, jeans and one of those nice Barbour waxed cotton jackets. The Queen does not wear jeans, but a tweed skirt. This uniform is accompanied by a battered, mud-splattered Land Rover and a pair of ruinously expensive, handmade shotguns. Anyone who dressed like the men in the picture would be found guilty of that most English of sins, Trying Too Hard, and sniggered at.”

At least there’s (pre-ironic?) Oktoberfest in Bavaria:

Ssb-LandeskommandantUndBezirksmajore

Image: HaTe on Wikipedia.

Yes, I know, you’re too distracted by the Tyrolean hats to notice the knickers.

Bike_in_Tweed_Stockholm_2013

Bike in Tweed, Stockholm 2013. Image: Wikipedia.

In a somewhat more ironic context, knickers have appeared at “tweed rides” in various cities around the world. Still, it’s hard to pull this off outside of an organized ride without seeming like you just stepped out of a steam punk convention.

Alas, our fashion overlords have banished knickers to the historical recreation ghetto. But maybe there’s hope. Since writing this silly post Google is now suggesting I visit this modern knicker purveyor. Nice, but could we skip the polyester?

As Marshall McLuhan used to say, “If you don’t like that idea, I’ve got others.” Not ready for knickers? How about my idea for a hipster Alpine wear shop? Get ready for the Kickstarter . . .

Leave a comment

13 Comments

  1. I ride horses and wear breeches and tall boots. Similar concept. The whole point of knickers is to keep your pants and legs clean and unencumbered by extra material while you’re doing whatever useful task you’re doing: hunting, riding a bike, etc. Modern sport has transitioned to the legging, but I agree that it’d be nice to have more material through the leg and keep the calf unencumbered. Bringing them back really isn’t a bad idea. HA!

  2. We cyclists in colder climates never gave up on knickers. Especially those of us who end up with full length tights bunched up around our ankles due to short legs.

  3. Since hakama (also suitable for swordplay) and other traditional styles are coming back into vogue, I’d say the trend in retro clothing has definite merit. If it’s comfy, wear it!

  4. BTW the “monocle” is back in the culture – but people do it now with contact lenses – one eye for reading, the other for distance.

  5. Gotta admit, I love knickerbockers, gauchos, clamdiggers, and other knee-length bifurcated garments. They’re comfy, great for layering in an age of climate chaos, they go under shirts, dresses, or skirts.

    It took a while for me to re-embrace them after my mom decided to dress me in them constantly in 1980-83 in tribute to Princess Di (massive eye-roll), but here we are.

  6. Some years ago, I tried to buy a pair of climbing breeches, which are loose pants made of tweed or moleskin (not REALLY skin from moles!) that buckle just below the knee and are ideal for general hiking. I found that rock climbers these days wear skin-tight Lycra in vivid colors, which was not at all what I had in mind!

    The picture of the immaculately attired English shooting (not hunting) party must be from Downton Abbey or similar fiction. The standard dress for even the most aristocratic shooting party is rubber boots, jeans and one of those nice Barbour waxed cotton jackets. The Queen does not wear jeans, but a tweed skirt. This uniform is accompanied by a battered, mud-splattered Land Rover and a pair of ruinously expensive, handmade shotguns. Anyone who dressed like the men in the picture would be found guilty of that most English of sins, Trying Too Hard, and sniggered at.

    So now you know what to wear the next time the Queen invites you to go shooting!

    • Peter–many thanks for the correction, though I’m disappointed to learn that this picture is fiction. Also many thanks for the tip on climbing breeches. We really need to unite on stopping the many lycra tribes out there!

  7. This funny – I’m sitting here reading this after bike commuting home in my normal commuting attire – a pair of knickers.

    I have two pair – one from BetaBrand and one from Swrve.

  8. You’ve forgotten the ‘plus fours’ worn in Britain at some point in the last century, for sporting activities. A bit longer than knickers. I saw them referenced in various British novels, and finally looked them up to see what this referred to.

Comments are closed.